The practical half of an Istanbul trip: how the trams and ferries actually work, what the palaces on the water are, and what to do with a stopover that is too short to leave the city but too long to sit in the terminal.
Dolmabahce, Ciragan, Beylerbeyi, Rumeli Hisari. Who built them, when, and why they all turned to face the water.
One card, six kinds of transport and a strait in the middle. How the city actually connects, and what runs late.
How many hours you need before leaving the airport makes sense, and what to do with six, ten or an overnight.
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